Camino Q&A

November 11, 2008 by Luci

I have received a lot of questions about the Camino and I thought I would put them in writing. If you have additional questions, just let me know!

Q: What kind of news do you get about home? Anything about the upcoming election, or are you like “it can wait.”

A: We actually didn’t get a lot of news while on the Camino. One day we stopped at a bar and we saw Bush on Spanish news with the words $700 Billion, and we knew something big was going on. It wasn’t until I got back though that I really learned what “The Bailout” was all about. That was the extent of the US news we received. Incidentally, Spain received some major flooding in their southern regions while we were there, and so we did see some coverage of that.

Q: Do you and Ann dine mostly alone or with others?

A: Breakfast and lunch was usually with just the two of us. As for dinners… I’d say at the beginning of the Camino the two of us ate alone, but near the end of the Camino we usually had dinner with other pilgrims we met along the way.

Q: What do people most want to know about you when you meet them (after they find out you are American and don’t speak much Spanish)?

A: Conversation among pilgrims usually revolves around three things: 1) Distance (kilometers walked that day, since we started the Camino, and remaining until Santiago). 2) Foot health (how many blisters and how big). And 3) Snoring. (It amazing how many different types of snoring there are.)

When you start to get to know other pilgrims, conversations will then go a little deeper and you find out a little more about each other. But for the most part, those three topics dominate pilgrim conversations. (And, yes, it does get old.)

Q: Are you up front with them about your night-blindness and “low vision” or do you wait to talk about it until they bring it up?

A: I only ended up telling a handful of people about my vision loss. It’s not that I was trying to hide it, it’s just that often times there really wasn’t a point to bringing it up. Most people we met we only saw a handful of times and conversations wouldn’t go that “deep.” Or, an opportunity to share just never came up.

Q: Has your vision been a problem more so on the Camino vs. if you had just stayed home, or is it about the same kind of challenge still?

A: In essence, vision loss is a challenge no matter where you are. However, trying to traverse 400 miles of sometimes very rocky and uneven surfaces definitely presented a greater challenge than simply walking around the house, where I have already identified furniture, steps and other hazards.

I think it’s fair to say that familiar surroundings are always going to be preferred by anyone with vision loss, but that doesn’t mean that they should never venture out. What kind of life would that be?

Q: Have you felt safe most of the time, or are you being very conscious of where your money and bags are all the time, etc., and watching your back always out of the corner of your eye?

A: Ann and I were amazed at how safe we each felt while walking the Camino. That said, you should always be aware of your surroundings, and keep an eye on your possessions.

Pilgrims walking the Camino are protected by Spanish law. Offenses committed against them are taken very seriously. Sitting here now, I cannot remember a time when I felt any kind of danger. Some local people may not like all of the pilgrims constantly coming through their towns, but I never felt like I was ever in any kind of harm’s way.

Honestly, if I didn’t have vision loss and need some assistance on that front, I would feel comfortable walking the Camino by myself, a single woman.

Q: Is the Camino crowded? How many people are on it at the same time as you? Do you and Ann walk alone or find a group to walk with? Do people pass you up and walk faster?

A: There were some days that the Camino felt like a highway. We would climb to the top of a hill and look down the other side and see people all along the road. Other days, we wouldn’t run into anyone. Most days though, we would see a handful or people when they passed us. We were almost always the slowest people walking. Also, for the most part, Ann and I walked separately, each lost in our own thoughts.

Q: Would you do it again?

A: Ah, the million dollar question. When I first started walking, I often wondered why anyone would come back and do it a second, third, or more times. About two-thirds of the way through though, I began to understand why.

The Camino is unlike anything else in the world. It is a safe, reasonably affordable, well-marked journey that provides a unique opportunity to disconnect – from the world, from problems, from people, etc. Everyone I met on the Camino seemed to be at some sort of crossroads in their life.

The Camino was much tougher physically than I was prepared for. Low vision and aching feet made each day challenging. Also, the alburgues became as much of a challenge for me as the walking. Because of my vision loss, I was never fully able to relax when I stayed in an alburgue. I would always have to be on high alert, looking out for boots and backpacks and other gear. Plus, I’m an introvert and I never got the “alone time” I needed at the end of the day.

But then there were the spiritual highs I experienced during the walking day, the times when I was able to transcend any physical or emotional issues I was having and focus solely on God. During those times, I never wanted the Camino to end.

So, would I do it again?

Yes.

I can’t believe I just wrote that. But, yes. I would walk it again. Now that I’m back at home, and the physical pain has subsided, I keep thinking about the time I spent in prayer with God. It was amazing and unlike anything I had ever experienced. It alone was worth every step.

Adjusting to the Unknown

November 9, 2008 by Luci

I’m still adjusting to being home.

Which, let me be clear, is different that saying: I am still adjusting to no longer being on the Camino. Or, I am still adjusting to not walking long distances every day. Those two things I have perfectly adjusted to, much to the happiness of my aching feet.

I am still adjusting to being home.

Which, now that I have written that, isn’t really what I want to say at all. Because being home isn’t what I am struggling with. Being home has been lovely. Being home, seeing my family, my friends, and living a life of unemployed leisure has actually taken no adjustment on my part whatsoever.

So what the heck am I still adjusting to? Is “adjusting” even the right word? What, exactly, is my problem?

(Welcome to the inner workings of my brain.)

It’s the unknown. I am still adjusting to the unknown. My unknown. The huge, blank slate before me that is my life. My future.

The closest thing I currently have to a goal is getting a part-time holiday job at a local retail store. Something to get me through the next couple of months and COBRA payments. But then what? More travel? A new career? Which career?

I’m open to thoughts and suggestions. I’m open to anything, really, as long as it’s not Dunder-Mifflin, Inc.

The Return Home

November 7, 2008 by Luci

“As you may know, I spent the last three months in Africa. A wondrous, magical place. But as shadows lengthen across the KBHR window, thoughts turn to homecoming. Journey’s end. Because in a sense it’s the coming back, the return, which gives meaning to the going forth. We really don’t know where we’ve been until we’ve come back to where we were. Only, where we were may not be as it was because of who we’ve become. Which, after all, is why we left.”
–Bernard, “Northern Exposure” Episode 3.21

Homecoming. Journey’s end. The return home.

It has been one week since I have returned. In that time, I have been catching up with family and friends, and rediscovering the joys of the mundane:

  • Using shampoo AND conditioner, instead of a 2-in-1
  • Not sleeping in a sleeping bag
  • Doing laundry. For free. In a machine.
  • Not wearing the same clothes every day
  • Getting my haircut
  • Walking up and down grocery store aisles in giddy excitement at all the food choices

I have also been watching the news and can now tell you what “The Bailout” is and who “joe the Plumber” most likely voted for on Election Day.

Mostly though, I have been reflecting… contemplating my recent 400-mile achievement and my unknown future… wondering how I can use the momentum from one to move ahead in the other.

Part of me feels lost and uncertain. Displaced. I have so much freedom, yet so little direction. Where do I go from here?

That said, another part of me feels found. My faith has been solidified. My purpose has been discovered. My confidence has been boosted from accomplishing such an outrageous goal.

How do I unite my lost with my found to create my future?

Baby steps, I guess. Living life one decision at a time. Living life with patience. Grace.

It’s a work in progress, but that’s where I am today. We’ll see what tomorrow brings.

Photos are UP!

November 4, 2008 by Luci

Greetings All,

Thought you might like to know that I have added photos of the Camino to the blog! Use the calendar to click on a date between September 8 and October 27 to see the photos taken on that day.

I’m still planning on adding a few more things to the Camino section of the blog – info on waymarking, contour maps for daily walks, etc. I’ll let you know when that info is up.

Also, a new general blog entry is coming soon, detailing the riveting life of unemployed Luci. I know, you can’t wait, can you?

Happy Election Day!

Eat. Sleep. Read. at the End of the Earth

October 27, 2008 by tstarke

Okay, so I´m taking a page out of Elizabeth Gilbert´s book “Eat. Pray. Love.” (Which, incidentally, I very much enjoyed.)

Eat, sleep and read is pretty much what I have been up do since arriving in Santiago last Thursday. Here´s a rundown of the events from the past few days:

Thursday – Arrive in Santiago! Jubilee!

Friday – Sleep in. Run errands. Eat delicious food. Run more errands. Found a bookshop that sells books in English and purchased two. Eat again. Sleep.

Saturday – Bus to Fisterre! Fisterre is also known as “Finis terre” or “end of the earth.” Before people realized the earth was round, they really thought Fisterre was the edge of the world. I had originally hoped to walk from Santiago to Fisterre (a distance of about 100 kilometers), but lack of time and energy soon turned that dream into a 21€ round-trip bus ticket. So, Saturday morning we woke up early, headed to the bus station and jumped on board for the two and a half hour ride.

We arrived in Fisterre around 11:30 a.m. Hungry and tired, we checked into the first hotel we saw, dumped our bags and then went in search for food. But, because the Spanish are sooooo… Spanish, they don´t serve lunch until 1:00, so we had to settle for a sandwich and a bag of chips. After leaving the bar, we found a grocery store, stocked up on junk food, and headed back to our hotel room where we proceeded to eat, sleep, and read the rest of the day. It was FABULOUS. Just what this weary pilgrim needed.

View from Hotel Finisterre window

View from Hotel Finisterre window

Sunday – We slept in, of course, got some breakfast and then headed out the door for the 7 kilometer round trip walk to the Fisterre lighthouse.

Cape Fisterre

Cape Fisterre

Believe it or not, it actually felt good to walk again. But what felt really good, was literally walking to the end of the earth. After 400 miles across Spain, I finally felt like I crossed the finish line when we walked by the “0.0 kilometers remaining” sign. At last, my Camino came to an end.

We took some time and sat on the rocks overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. I have seen the Atlantic many times from the east coast of the United States, but I had never had the opportunity to gaze on it, looking west. It was wonderful and peaceful, and just the conclusion I had hoped for. Ann and I recounted some of the memories from our trip, and it was such a lovely way to bring the journey to an end. I feel really grateful that we made the effort to go there.

"End of the Earth" at Faro Finisterre

"End of the Earth" at Faro Finisterre

End of the Earth

End of the Earth

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After the lighthouse, we walked back to town where we proceeded to…. you guessed it… Eat. Sleep. and Read. In two days, I ate a box of cookies, read the two books I purchased in Santiago, and slept approximately 20 hours. Fab-u-lous.

Monday, Today – Woke up, took a three hour bus ride back to Santiago, which is where I currently sit, passing time, until our overnight train leaves for Madrid. Tomorrow we will meet back up with Sofie, and pick up the belongings we shipped to her in the middle of the Camino. Wednesday we fly HOME.

(In case you´re curious, I purchased two additional books today, which will hopefully get me through the train and plane ride home.)

As for home… I can´t wait. I really can´t wait. Not because the pilgrimage has been much more difficult than I expected (which it has), or because I miss you, my family and friends (which I do), but because I am just so excited to get going with my life.

And, NO, I did not magically discover what I should be doing for the rest of my life. I am excited about the unknown. I am excited about the possibilities. I am excited to just SEE what is going to happen next. Like the books I read over the weekend, I am just so excited to keep flipping pages of my life and see what the next chapter brings.

Which brings to mind the blog post I wrote in August called “Ridiculous Bliss” about the day I realized that I was just excited to be living THIS life. MY life. Once again, I am filled with that excitement. My life is far from perfect, but it´s mine and I am so thankful I get to live it. So thankful.

It is time to return home now. Home to my family. Home to my friends. Home to the unknown. I hope you´ll continue to join me on my journey as I flip the page and see what the next chapter brings!

Blessings from España,
Luci

0.00 Kilometers Remaining

0.00 Kilometers Remaining

Jubilee in Santiago de Compostela

October 24, 2008 by Luci
Santiago de Compostela Cathedral

Santiago de Compostela Cathedral

We Made It! 400 Miles in 41 days of walking.

FOUR HUNDRED MILES in FOURTY ONE DAYS. (Actually, it took 43 days, but two of them were rest days, so I´m not counting them.)

400 miles. Amazing.

Can you believe it? I can´t believe it.

The last two days went really well. No rain, just tired bodies and feet, but spirits were high.

Yesterday, as I started my last day of walking, I declared to Ann that it was to be a “Day of Jubilee.” I felt such joy! It was the best way I could find to express all of the joy in my heart. And, right before we arrived in Santiago, we climbed our last Galacian hill called Monto de Gozo, which translates to Mount of Joy. It was there we saw our first sights of Santiago de Compostela. Jubilee on Mount Joy!

Once we arrived in the city center around 2:00 p.m., it took us a couple hours to find lodging, but we finally did. At last, our pilgirmage was over. At least the physical one is over. I can only imagine the ways it will continue spiritually…

The Day of Jubilee was capped off with one last international pilgrim dinner with Penny and Terry (sisters from Canada), Niel and Mia (friends from Denmark), Rowan and Aiden (father and son from Ireland), and Ann and myself. (I even managed to have some chocolate cake, which only added to the jubilee.) As Ann and I walked back to our hotel after dinner, we walked among some street musicians playing traditional Galacian music. It was a perfect end of day to an incredible journey.

This morning, we treated ourselves to a nice long sleep in (9:00 a.m.) and then went and got our Compostelas from the Pilgrim Office in Santiago. The Compostela is basically a fancy certificate saying that we walked at least 100 kilometers to Santiago. (When I get home, I´ll scan it and post it on here for you.)

I have to be honest… this whole time, walking to Santiago, I didn´t think the Compostela would be a big deal for me. I mean, it´s just a piece of paper. But for some reason, it really meant a lot to me when I finally received it. It felt like exactly what it was… some kind of official recognition of everything I went through: the blisters, the tears, the foot pain, but also the joy, and peace, and love. When I look at that certificate, I don´t just see fancy writing… I see everything I went through to get here.

After receiving our Compostelas, we headed to the pilgrim´s mass at the Cathedral with 1000 of our closest international friends. After that, we treated ourselves to a nice lunch and now, here I am, sitting in an internet cafe in the middle of an ancient city that has been a pilgrimage destination for millions of people for more than a thousand years.

I have to admit, I´m feeling pretty proud of myself at the moment. One of the many reasons I wanted to do this pilgrimage was to simply see if I could do it. And I did. I had no idea that I was capable of such a thing. It makes me wonder what else I could do if I set my mind to it. It makes me wonder what anyone could do with enough love and support and courage.

Four Hundred Miles.
Four hundred miles of mountains and meseta.
Four hundred miles with 75 percent vision loss.
Four hundred miles of foot pain.
Four hundred miles of new friends, new thinking, and renewed faith.
Four hundred miles leading me to JOY.

“Stand at the crossroads and look;
ask for the ancient paths,
ask where the good way is, and walk in it,
and you will find rest for your souls.”
–Jeremiah 6:16 (NIV)

Photos from October 23, 2008

October 23, 2008 by Luci

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Signs leading to Monte Gozo

Signs leading to Monte Gozo

Monte do Gozo (Mount Joy)

Monte do Gozo (Mount Joy)

Sculpture at Monte do Gozo

Sculpture at Monte do Gozo

My "white" shirt after 43 days and 400 miles. And, yes, it was washed every night.

My "white" shirt after 41 days and 400 miles. And, yes, I washed it every night.

Photos from October 22, 2008

October 22, 2008 by Luci
Pilgrim Parking

Pilgrim Parking

O Pino

Arca do Pino

Day 45 – GEEKED in Arzúa

October 21, 2008 by Luci

WE´RE SOOOO CLOSE! And yet so far. 24.5 miles to go. TWENTY FOUR MILES! Do you KNOW how close that is?? Seriously, take a minute and figure out something that is 24 miles away from your house, and then you´ll understand how close we really are.

I can only imagine how I´ll be feeling tomorrow night when we´re 12.5 miles away!

We walked 9 miles today in the rain and wind. It stunk. My boots and socks and feet were soaked by the end. But we did it. And now we´re 9 miles closer.

Anyway, aside from the wet feet, I am GEEKED. Seriously geeked. This pilgrimage is just 48 hours from being over. It´s been an experience of a lifetime, but I am ready to be DONE. I am ready to put my feet up for a few days and just CHILL.

Okay, sorry for all the random CAPS, but I just don´t know how else to convey all the EMOTIONS jumbling about inside me. It´s crazy. I can only imagine how I´m going to feel on Thursday when we arrive in Santiago. Probably relief at being done, joy at having arrived safely, and sheer ASTONISHMENT that I succeeded at this goal.

Well, I´m getting ahead of myself. I still have two days and 24.5 miles to go. And I really really really hope that those 24.5 miles are rain free. Really. Wet feet make every mile seem longer.

And now for a moment entirely cheesy: I miss you all very much. I am SO THANKFUL that you are all in my life!! I am so thankful for all of your prayers and love and encouragement and cheer. Thank you for being a part of this journey. Thank you. It would not have been the same without you.

End Cheesy. Resume being GEEKED!

TWO DAYS!!!!!!!!!!!! 24.5 MILES!!!!!!!!!!

3 days, 35 miles to go!

October 21, 2008 by Luci

Hi all,

Just a quick update to let you know that we have 3 days and less than 35 miles to go!!!

Despite the fact that we could arrive in Santiago in less than an hour by car, we are committed to finish walking. Hopefully the next three days will be a joyful culmination of all we have experienced so far!

More later,

Luci